There is no difference in performance, but there is a difference in the application of the fixative and the temperature at which you dye the fabric.

They are equally effective. There are some benefits for each: Cold Water dyeing: - Some fabrics (like wool) cannot be dyed in hot water, as it shrinks - You don't need a washing machine (a bucket will do) - No boiling of water is required - Is easier if you are hand-dyeing garments Hot Water dyeing: - There are more colours in the range - If using a washing machine, there is less effort required

Home dyeing is best suited to natural fibres, the most common being cotton - although we do not advise dyeing wool or silk for fear of temperature damage. Avoid synthetics such as polyesters and acrylics at all costs. See FAQ on Identifying Fabric Types.

The solution into which you place the cloth to be dyed. It consists of water, diluted salt, and dye. For more detail see under Making the Dye Bath.

You make up a dye solution before adding water and salt to create the dye bath. It gives you the opportunity to dissolve the dyes and to strain out solids before the dye bath stage. For more detail see under Making the Dye Bath.

Batik is a dyeing method starting with the masking of parts of the fabric with wax. The other parts of the fabric are then dyed with cold water dye. It is one of the resist dyeing methods.

If you are going to wash the garment or wish to protect it from running, most certainly yes. If not, such as a tie dyed wall hanging, maybe save yourself the trouble, but hey, why not finish the job? For fuller comment, see section on Dyeing the Fabric.

Technically, these dyes are what are known as reactive dyes and traditionally reactive dyes have been referred to as cold water dyes because they will dye natural fibres in cold water. But you get significantly better results with warmer water - up to a maximum of 60°C.

They are equally effective. The differences are: - Hot water dyeing is a little faster and you get an opportunity to check the result you have achieved before "fixing" the colour - Cold water dyes, on the other hand, do not require you to boil the water. As such they are more accessible to consumers for whom the availability of domestic power is an issue

There are a few possibilities: It might not be cotton - Cotton is sometimes claimed but the material is a synthetic. - If imported, it is more likely than with local fabric. - Check out the origin of the material or garment. - If indeed you suspect it is not cotton, there are burn tests you can do. If your problem is blotchiness or the dye not taking only in part, the garment may contain sizing - a waxy substance common in new fabrics. Hot washing with strong detergent will remove sizing although one wash may not be enough. Try a hotter temperature. Each shade of dye constitutes a combination of shades that react with the fabric at different temperatures. If you do not have sufficient heat, you may not get an adequate result; it might be too pale or even the wrong shade.

The shade of dye that you have bought represents an application on cream/ white cotton. Applying the dye to a different base shade will give a different - and most likely unacceptable - result. It is therefore important to get the garment as close to creamy-white as possible.

Continue the process. You have not left the garment in the boiling solution for long enough. The blue dye in the bottle green formula has worked or exhausted, but not yet the yellow (remember blue and yellow make green!). Because the yellow exhausts after a longer time, you boil it for longer.

Synthetic fabrics like polyester and poly-acrylics require industrial conditions for dyeing. The dyes have a unique use, they have to be raised to very high temperatures and must subjected to pressure incompatible with home use.

Tie dyeing is a common form of resist dyeing. Rubber bands or string are used to constrict parts of the fabric so that the dye bath does not reach all parts equally well. Loose tie dyeing will feature a range of shades, whilst tight tie dyeing will have clearer defined lines and a starker white or base shade. Read our Techniques section for detailed information.

Dyeing can be done on a small scale in the home on the stove; this is known as hand dyeing or manual dyeing. Larger quantities of fabric can be successfully dyed in an automatic washing machine or - using cold water dyes - single or twin tub top loading machines. Small amounts of fabric can even be dyed in a microwave oven. See our section headed Dyeing the Fabric.

Dye it twice to get the perfect result - once to dye the nylon, and then to dye the cotton. 1. Weigh the garment, as usual. 2. Calculate the respective weights of nylon and cotton in the garment (you need to know the proportions of cotton and nylon). 3. Dye the garment according to the nylon and cotton dyeing methods. First dye the nylon by following this method: 1. Heat the dye bath with garment in from cold. Stir continuously throughout the process. 2. Do not add salt or fixative (as for cottons), but ½ cup of vinegar to the solution. 3. Keep at the boil for +- 15 minutes. 4. Allow to dry. The nylon fibres have now been dyed. Now dye the cotton fibres by following the standard instructions for dyeing. This method will work for both hot water (direct) dyes and cold water (reactive) dyes.

This is always a possibility. It depends largely on whether they are pre-shrunk. You should in any event wash your garments at a similar temperature to that at which you plan to dye to prepare for dyeing. If in doubt, use a reactive (cold water) dye which should not be raised to over 60 degrees C.

Yes. You may use either a hot water or cold water dye but instead of using salt - as with cottons - use ½ cup of vinegar per pack of dye. With the garment submerged, increase the temperature to boiling point while stirring continuously. Do not add the enclosed fixative.

One can identify natural fabrics from synthetics by means of a simple burn test. Taking a piece of thread or an inconspicuous offcut, set it alight with an open flame. If the fabric is a natural fibre - such as cotton or silk - it will burn to ash. If it is synthetic it will form a globule - plastic like, and hard to the touch.

Normal table salt that you use in the kitchen is perfect.

The amount of fabric you need to dye will determine this. The more fabric you need to dye, the more sense it makes to use a machine. If you only have a small amount of fabric to dye, hand-washing may be easier.